Early on Friday morning, Nikki and Nickey dropped me off at Steenbras river again. From here, it was only 17 kilometres to Rooiels, where I was planning to spend the night, so I decided to take it easy on the tar along Clarence Drive. This is a most scenic pass down the eastern side of False Bay, winding its way along the coast, sometimes almost at sea level, and elsewhere high up, overlooking all of this beautiful bay that has caused ancient seafarers so much trouble. Even in more recent years, this stretch of coastline has seen its share of tragedies. The crosses, plaques and small monuments, erected in memory of fishermen who have been washed off the rocks, others drowned while swimming or diving, or cars that have crashed through the barriers and tumbled down into the sea.
However, on this beautiful morning, I was able to rejoice in the pure beauty of the view around me. On my left, the mountains rose up steeply from the roadside. To my right, it was al sea, I could see the whole of the Cape Peninsula, where I had walked just a few days before.
All of a sudden, I saw movement in the water below me, it was a seal, slamming an octopus on the surface, to tear smaller, chewable chunks off the big meal it has caught. While I was standing, staring at this little, very special spectacle, another, bigger splash caught my eye. It was a humpback whale! One of the last left along the coast for the current season. Most of its fellow migrants have already left for the freezing waters of Antarctica.
It was starting to get hot again and so I decided to increase my speed to avoid spending too much time on boiling tar. I have had more than enough of hot tar surfaces. In fact, I have become quite the expert on tar! If you think I exaggerate, please forgive me, but I believe that I can gauge the temperature of the tar to within two degrees centigrade... Just by the smell!
Just before the road started its descent to Rooiels, I was surprised by Tania, an old friend and ex colleague, almost running me down in an attempt to stop her car next to me! I waited at the next viewpoint while she found a turning spot. We didn't have a lot of time to catch up on news, because she was already almost late for her flight to Johannesburg, but she didn't leave before making sure that I accepted her invitation to stay over with her and her mother in Kleinmond, when I get there. The last kilometre to Rooiels was downhill and I made it in good time.
What do you get when twin brothers from Sea Point become chefs, join a rock band, and then start a restaurant in Rooiels? You get... Something Els! Really, that is the name of their restaurant. Zee and Adrian van Zyl were to be my hosts for the evening and put me up in a very comfortable flatlet above the restaurant and invited me to dinner... ON THE HOUSE! While browsing through their very innovative menu, Zee introduced me to one of their local regulars, an Austrian gentleman by the name of Adolf, who has been living in South Africa for thirty six years. Even though Adolf joked about my brainless scheme, he did it with genuine humor and I could take no offence. He later even insisted on paying for my meal and gave me a "small donation towards the roadfund". Thank you Adolf!
Back to the menu: As I was now on the adventure of a lifetime, it was just fitting to be adventurous in my choice of main course, so I went for CROCODILE AND PRAWNS IN A THAI CURRY! And, Boy, I was not disappointed! I won't try to discribe it, but when next you are near Rooiels, pop in and try it! Zee and Adrian are genuine guys who take their food (and their patrons) seriously. Adrian even gave me a loaf of his home baked bread to take along the next morning!
Day 10 - 24 January 2009
I had hardly started walking on Saturday morning, when I took the wrong turnoff and would have ended up back in front of Something Els, had a lady called Sandra not asked why I was going that way. She had recognised me from the papers and realised that the road I was walking on, would soon make a U-turn, so she suggested that I walk with her, as she was going in the right direction. We started chatting and she told me she was hunting rockjumpers, a special species of bird that is very sought after amongst birdwatchers, and which tend to frequent a certain area just outside the village. Just a few hundred metres on, we met up with some other birders who had just found a rockjumper. But Sandra first wanted to take some photos of me.
So after saying our goodbyes, I was off on my own again, on this very rough gravel track, towards Pringle Bay. It was only eight kilometres from Rooiels to Pringle Bay, but the gravel was killing my tender feet, so that this short distance, that would normally take me no more than two hours, ended up in a five and a half hour crawl-swear-limp-swear-stumble-swear-hop-swear-sitdown-swear epic!
On the beach in Pringle Bay, I received a call from Albert, a reporter from the Sunday Times. I had met him on the beach in Kommetjie a few days earlier and he was interested in my story. Albert told me that he had picked up a photographer and was en route to catch me for an exclusive in the Sunday Times Leisure Section, for the 8th of February edition. I took that as a sign to stop and rest right there on the beach! An hour later he arrived and with a small shock of recognition, I realised that his photographer, Ruwan, was the same guy who photographed me for the Sunday Times in St George's Hospital, Port Elizabeth, in March 2000, just after the Stormsriver accident! He recognized me too and the photo shoot that followed turned into an hour long back-and-forth, this-way-and-that-way, just-one-more-shot, and-another-last-one, oh-no-I-spoiled-that-one, have-to-do-it-again, fun afternoon on the beach with lots of people casting curious glances at us.
By the time the interview was over, it was nearly time for Yzelle to arrive, so I phoned her to say I will be waiting right there at Pringle Bay. Tomorrow is my first rest day since the start of the walk and we were going to spend a short weekend camping at Palmiet near Kleinmond. Soon Yzelle and I would not be able to see each other at all, so we have decided to spend as much of my off time, together, as possible.
Day 12 - 26 January 2009
Yzelle dropped me off at Pringle bay again on Monday morning. She headed back to Cape town and I set off towards Kleinmond, via Bettys Bay. It was cool and after a day of rest, my feet were feeling much better, so the gravelroad past the Hangklip Hotel, was not much of an obstacle. What did stop me in my tracks, however, was a boom gate a few kilometres on. The sign read Seafarm Nature Reserve - Private property - No Entry! Well, what now? I have learnt that the best thing to do in a case like this, is to sit down, have a drink of water and PRAY! I was tempted to trespass. I did not want to tresspass. Actually, I wanted to tresspass, but I didn't want to get caught. As it turned out, I wouldn't need to tresspass. The next moment, a bakkie stopped next to me and a guy in uniform got out to open the gate. I approached him and introduced myself. He was Frank Douglass (with two esses) and Frank was the warden in charge. And Frank liked what I was doing. And so, after a long chat, he left to go and do his conservation work and I had permission to pass without having to trespass!
The gravel soon ended where the well known Hangklip dunes had started claiming back their territory, so I had a short walk through a natural dune field, down to the beach towards Stony Point. Here I had another one of those surprising, very inspiring meetings, with complete strangers. This time, A German couple who had been staying in South Africa for six months and were due to return to their home country at the end of February. Martin was so impressed with our people here in SA, and everyone's hospitality and friendliness, that he wanted to thank everyone by contributing something small towards my effort. All they had with them at the time, were three bananas, a packet of multivitamins and a tube of foot ointment. But that made my day! The bananas were most welcome for I had not eaten breakfast, but as so many times before, it was the gesture of goodwill and generosity that touched me most. I am trying to get photographs of these people who contribute to my daily wellbeing, but every time, I am so overwhelmed, that, by the time I remember, they have gone on their way and were out of sight!
The rest of my day went well, with cool, overcast weather, the beach sand and smooth road surfaces, making the going easy. At just before six in the evening, I was walking down the main street of Kleinmond, when a small bakkie stopped across the road and a gentleman ran towards me with a bottle of juice. With a handshake and a "Keep walking, Son, we are praying for you!", he ran back to his bakkie and went off. I was, once again, humbled and rejuvinated! It was only another two blocks to the Vet's surgery where my friend Tania worked.
Day 13 - 27 January 2009
After a good night's rest, feet treated with Arnica Ice, Tania dropped me off where I finished the day before. Again, like yesterday, the weather was overcast and cool, with the prospect of a very long beach walk, which suited me just perfectly! The best thing was the texture of the sand at Kleinmond, it was firm enough to walk comfortably, but soft enough to cushion the impact of my slowly healing feet. Barefoot hiker's paradise! It was quiet along this stretch of coastline and I progressed well. Tania had told me about the enigmatic wild marsh horses of Kleinmond and I dearly wanted to catch a glimpse of them on the way.
About seven kilometres down the beach, I met a gentleman, Sarel, returning from his morning walk. As usual, he was carrying two large rubbish bags, picking up litter along the way. I was really impressed and thankful for individuals like Sarel, who still cared about our environment. He didn't throw the rubbish on the beach, he didn't need to clean up other people's mess, he wasn't getting paid to do it. No, he just liked a clean beach and took it on himself to get his hands dirty and do what he believed was neccessary. To Sarel, and all those peolple like him, a big HATS OFF! Thank you, Oom Sarel!
But Oom Sarel had more in store for me. He knew where the wild horses were. In fact, he had just passed their grazing area and had spotted nine of them. With his directions, I sped up to still catch them there. As I went through the gap between the dunes he indicated, I saw them! Four, standing knee deep in the water of the marsh. Careful not to frighten them, I slowly moved closer. They seemed completely at ease, looking up every now and again, but not showing any sign of alarm. I started taking photo's as I approached, not wanting risk getting nothing, if they did run off unexpectedly. But to my surprise, I managed to get to within twenty metres from them, counting thirteen horses in total, including a young foal of less than a year old. My day had been made and I was extatic.
One concern remained, however. The lagune at Meer-en-See was an unknown factor. I have been warned that the mouth was open and could be flowing wide, deep and strong. It was then that I remembered Shafieq, my new plumber friend from Strandfontein. And I had his number. So, on the phone to the plumber to solve my water problem. As it turns out, Shafieq had just spent the weekend at his house there and, as it befits any good fisherman, he had been down on the beach most of the weekend. He assured me that the mouth was shallow, narrow and not flowing too strong. It was a relief, because I am a hiker, but not much of a swimmer! Arriving at the edge, I put my pack down and waded through just to make sure. The sand was saturated with water and had the consistancy of quicksand. Returning for my pack, I started the fifty metre crossing with confidence. However, with the added weight of the backpack, I just sank right down into the sand. In places, the water was only ankle deep, but I plunged so deep into the sand, that my shorts got soaked! Fortunately, where the water was deeper, the sand was more sturdy and within fifteen minutes, I was out on the opposite bank, with a dry backpack and only slightly out of breath.
The last stretch of beach to Hawston went quickly. I met only one person there, Tyronne, who was taking out sand clams in the receding tide. He warned me not to take the coastal paths to Onrus, because that is where the Tik-junkies hang out and they had dogs that they set on anyone who passes by. So I followed him through the streets of Hawston to the main road to Hermanus.
It was rush hour in Hermanus and I was happy to, for once, be able to walk faster than the cars were driving. Looking at the frustrated, angry faces of the commutors, I was very glad to be on foot. By 18h15 I reached the Old Harbour in central Hermanus, my objective for the day. As agreed, Tania arrived shortly after that and we got pizza for dinner before driving back to Kleinmond where I spent the second night with her and her mom. Thanks Ladies!
Day 14 - 28 January 2009
By 9h00 Tania had me back at the Old Harbour and I was off on the Cliff Path past the front of Hermanus towards Voelklip beach, where my friend Brummer met me to accompany me all the way to De Kelders. Brummer is also a keen and experienced hiker. Like me, he prefers hiking in wild places in stead of along formal hiking trails. We chatted up a storm and before we realised, it was lunchtime and Brummer showed me the quaint little cave dwelling, in a single, freestanding rock in the middle of the beach at Sopiesklip, that was inhabited by a recluse many years ago.
The rest of the way to De Plaat at De Kelders, flew by and by 16h30, we reached the parking area of Walker Bay Nature Reserve, where Brummer was picked up by our other friend, Nzuzo, and taken back to fetch his car in Hermanus. The last stretch to my son, Duncan's flat, was just two kilometres. Along the way, I met another old friend, Sharlene, and she treated me to two slices of cake ... It was her birthday!
Dinner was at the Buitesteen Pub, with Duncan, and a bunch of friends from Gansbaai (Yzelle and I lived in De Kelders before the move to Cape Town). Present were Duncan, Brummer, Susan (who donated my backpack), Mark, Rudolph, Belinda, Florentina, Stephanie, Bennie, William and Wesley. Thank you for being there, all of you!
Day 15 - 29 January 2009
I had a meeting with Francois and Hardus at the Gansbaai Herald, so I set off into town. But, being seen as a local, I got stopped every few metres by residents who wanted to chat and encourage me. The interview with the newspapermen went very well (Francois was the first to publish an article about my walk, in November 2008 already). But getting through Gansbaai took me almost five hours! And I still had to walk to Danger Point Lighthouse and back to Kleinbaai. On the way I met another ex colleague, Phindile, who had taken clients on a tour to the lighthouse. He was so happy to see me that he stopped his vehicle right in the middle of the road to greet me. Fortunately it was a quiet road.
At 17h15, I had another telephonic interview with Johan Els of Radio Pulpit. It was a very emotional experience and, like the week before, the interview was followed by a flood of phonecalls and text messages from listeners, wishing me well and quoting bible texts in support.
I was in Kleinbaai and did not have to walk any further for the day. Uncle Thomas fetched me there and took me to their place, where I spent a wonderful evening with him and his dear wife, Mary-Ann.
Day16 - 30 January 2009
It was Friday, and I have decided to take the weekend off. The plan, from the start, was to take each Sunday off, but I had walked through my first Sunday, at Cape Point. My feet were getting better by the day and a weekend of rest would do them good. Yzelle was coming through again for the weekend and she was going to meet me in Pearly Beach in the afternoon.
I was psyched up for the day's walk and set off at a fast pace. Today I was going to break through the 300 kilometre mark and I was in a great mood. Two years prior, I had walked from Agulhas to Gansbaai, so I was familiar with this stretch of coastline. It was a sandy beach almost all the way to Pearly Beach, with just a short distance of pebbles and rocks. By 15h00 I was in Pearly Beach and feeling great. I think the prospect of a bonus day off with Yzelle just made it so much more enjoyable!
At the Pearly Beach Resort, a lady from Germany reversed her big 4x4 bakkie into Yzelle's car, leaving a barely noticable scratch on the front bumper. She was in a state of shock, apologising profusely. Despite our protests, she insisted on paying for damages and we eventually we managed to convince her that R1 000 was way too much, but we couldn't get away with accepting less than R500! She just wouldn't let us go without accepting the money. So, that meant that our campsite for the weekend was paid for! Yet another assurance that God gives us what we need when we least expect it, in ways that we could never imagine!
The weekend was great, we spent quality time together and had Sunday lunch with Uncle Thomas and Maryann, who invited us to also spend the night with them. So now I have just spent my whole Sunday afternoon bringing my diary up to date for you guys. At an age where I probably should have taken an afternoon nap!
Thank you for your incredible support! We really do appreciate it more than you could ever imagine.
Jaco Kaalvoet
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